Portugal With Kids: Our 16-Day Family Itinerary
What an underrated country! We wish we had more than 16 days to explore this beautiful country.
Flying into Portugal [LIS]
Day 1: Traveling To & /Day 2: Arriving in Portugal
We flew out of JFK in New York, direct to Lisbon, Portugal via Delta Airlines. The flight departed at 7:45 p.m., and arrived in Lisbon at approximately 8:00 a.m., with a flight time scheduled for approximately 7 hours. It took less than that to get there, and we were shocked at how quick the flight was, around 6.5 hours. Keep in mind that New York is 5 hours behind Portugal (4 hours behind during Daylight Savings Time). We flew out on Friday night, and arrived on Saturday morning. Keep this in mind with a 3:00 p.m. check in as most hotels/AirBnBs have. Also remember that if you are taking a night flight, your hotel should be booked starting the next day in this case (unless you want to check in earlier in the morning and are booking the hotel from the night before).
Our Airport Experience at Arrival
This was one of the things we were very worried about. We heard a lot about the delays and long, long lines at the airport (more on this when we departed at the end of our trip). There were definitely lines when we got to Passport Control, but we were done in approximately 30 minutes. With two tired kids in tow, we were concerned, but it ended up working out just fine. While I don’t encourage rushing off of the plane, I definitely understand why some people were moving quickly to exit the plane and get on the line. There were some basic food options at that early time, including a Starbucks.
Nonetheless, we were done at the airport, picked up our baggage, and headed out to where we ordered a Bolt, Portugal’s version of Uber, for our ride. We followed the signs through the airport, which were well-marked for the most part, to the area below. There were many people doing the same, so it was a little hectic, but still fine as the taxis parked and you walked over to them.
Some tips that work for us:
We encouraged our girls to sleep as soon as possible on the plane. We wanted them to sleep overnight so we could try to get the most out of the day when we arrived.
If you take the PM flight as we did, remember that you can book your hotel starting from the following day (although keep in mind that you are arriving in Lisbon around 8:00 a.m., and even after going through Passport control, etc. it is still mid-morning, and check in for hotels is usually around 3:00 p.m. Plan accordingly.
Despite it being a night flight, we had lots of toys/entertainment for both kids to keep them occupied during the flight.
Download the BOLT app before leaving, and you can then compare costs by checking Uber and Bolt for your rides. There were promo codes for Bolt all over the airport, so be sure to add this to the app, as it only works for that first ride. It was 50% off which was great for a ride from the airport. Another tip is to remember this promo code, and if you are traveling with your significant other or someone else, they can use it for another first ride for all of you as well.
Pick-Up Area for Bolt/Uber
Day 2: ½ day sight-seeing in Portugal after arrival
We arrived in Lisbon, and took a Bolt to our hotel, which was approximately 20 minutes with a little bit of traffic. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency Lisbon (more on this hotel soon). Our girls slept about 5 hours on the plane, and we probably slept a few hours, so we were exhausted. We arrived at the hotel, and luckily our room was ready. We took a nap for about 4 hours and woke up to get ready to explore.
Exploring Lisbon
We took another Bolt from our hotel to main area in Lisbon. Our first stop was Praca do Comercio and the Baixa district. Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) is one of Lisbon’s most iconic and beautiful public spaces. This grand, open square is located right on the Tagus River, at the edge of the Baixa district. It is framed on three sides by yellow Pombaline buildings, and it opens onto the river with a beautiful, coastal feel. At the center stands the equestrian statue of King Jose I. It is also anchored by the Arco da Rua Augusta, a monumental, triumphal arch that leads into the heart of Baixa.
Praça do Comércio
We walked through this entire area, exploring the shopping and eateries. The streets were just beautiful!
For dinner, we went to Bonjardim (more on this later, too).
Why this area is great for families or anyone looking to explore easily and get a feel for Lisbon:
It is flat and stroller-friendly - very easy to get around.
You can walk along the riverfront - we went back a second time at sunset and it was just stunning.
There are lots of cafes and options for eateries.
You can watch street performers, or just people-watch - this square is always full of life.
This is an easy starting or ending point for exploring Baixa, Alfama, Chiado, or hopping on Tram 28.
After dinner, we continued sight-seeing in this area. We then went to the Santa Justa Lift. This unique landmark built in 1902 is an iron elevator connecting the Baixa neighborhood to the higher Chiado/Carmo area. Designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a Portuguese engineer influenced by Gustave Eiffel (yes, that Eiffel), this explains the ornate ironwork.
The elevator ride was short, less than a minute. At the top, there was a viewing platform with views of Baixa’s rooftops, Sao Jorge Castle, and the Tagus River. From the top, you can walk directly into Chiado, and near the Carmo Convent ruins.
We ended our night at Amorino for some gelato, followed by our 10-minute Bolt back to our hotel. We were back around 11:30 p.m., and the kids were able to keep up, of course, because of the jet lag. And that was a wrap on Day 2!
Day 3: Belem
We began the day at the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Jeronimos Monastery). This grand, stunning landmark, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, was built in the early 1500s. The style of architecture and detail is breathtaking. Inside is the Church of Santa Maria, with the tombs of Vasco da Gama and poet Luis de Camos. This portion is free to enter (just be mindful of the times that these are open), but the general monastery is not free to enter. There are two levels of intricate stonework. We were there for approximately an hour and 15 minutes.
What to know for this site:
We got to this area around 11:20 a.m., and it was already very full. The line to get into the monastery was long, taking approximately a half hour for us to enter.
I would allot approximately 1-1.5 hours for the visit.
The open spaces made for a very kid-friendly visit, and the details really kept our kids engaged.
Jeronimos Monastery
After this, we went over the famous Pasteis de Belem. This was originally in the Jerónimos Monastery, where monks used leftover egg yolks to create custard tarts, selling them to survive after the monastery's closure in 1834. The secret recipe was given to a local sugar refinery owner, who opened the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém in 1837, where the original tarts are still made today, different from the widely known Pastel de Nata. We had lunch there, which was great, and of course had the pasteis de belem. They were delicious. There are two ways to experience this, with the takeaway line, which moves fast if you’re short on time, or the sit-down rooms. The interior space is huge, so we only waited about 10 minutes to be seated. This place lived up to the hype.
We then wandered through the area, and fell upon a street market, where they had some adorable items for sale. It was then time for the Monument to the Discoveries, or Padrão dos Descobrimentos. This structure stands 170 feet tall along the picturesque bank of the Tagus River. The site commemorates prominent historical figures from the 15th and 16th century Portuguese Age of Discovery. We continued on, taking photos at the LISBOA sign, which made for some sweet memories.
The Belem Tower, or Torre de Belem was next. Unfortunately, it was completely unavailable, as it was under construction, and enclosed in scaffolding on the outside.
We headed over to the San Antonio area to explore and walk through the streets, followed by the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This is one of the best observation points in Lisbon, providing a panoramic view of the city. This area is great for photos!
We explored the Igreja de Sao Roque, or Church of Sao Roque next. All of the churches we saw were just stunning, and this was no exception.
We stopped for a snack at Arcadia, a handmade chocolate shop. Everything was delicious. We went to the Baixa-Chiado area next to explore. We explored some of the shops in this area.
The iconic Pink Street (Rua Nova do Carvalho) in the Cais do Sodré neighborhood was the next area we explored. A smaller area than we expected (and its history not one to discuss with kids), we stopped for a quick rest and people-watched. We headed back to our hotel after a full day to get ready for dinner.
Canalha, a Michelin-rated restaurant, did not disappoint! It was walkable from our hotel and was the perfect end to our day.
Day 4 - Day Trip to Sintra
We took a Bolt from our hotel to Sintra, which was about 40-45 minutes. Our first stop was the National Palace of Pena. We toured the exterior of the palace and all of the gardens. We did not think it was worth it to wait on the line for the interior, as we had heard it was uneventful. This UNESCO World Heritage site and national monument evolved from a 12th century chapel, and then 16th century monastery, into a summer residence for King Ferdinand II and Queen Maria II in the 19th century. The grounds were stunning, and this was one of the highlights of our trip. We spent approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes here, just wandering the grounds.
Our next stop was Quinta da Regaleira. Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro built this estate with architect Luigi Manini. Monteiro’s unique interests impacted the design of the palace. For us, this estate was just as magical as the Palace of Pena. Many say that this surpasses in the Palace of Pena in its wonder. We spent approximately and hour and a half here.
We then wandered onto the streets of Sintra, exploring the different areas. We stopped for dinner, and after much sight-seeing, headed back to our hotel to rest for the evening.
What to know about Sintra:
We should have planned a bit more in terms of food. Many of the places were not open at the time our children were hungry, so we should have had a clear plan for where to eat. We tried to wander around to find somewhere, but some of the places did not have food that was as child-friendly. Also, remember to be mindful of the times that restaurants are open (much later for dinner). We loved this and were adjusted to it, but just didn’t plan well for this day.
Plan your transportation to and from the National Palace of Pena. We took an uber to the Palace which was easy, however, we could NOT get an Uber back from the Palace to the main area of Sintra. The Uber drivers kept canceling or not showing up, simply because of the traffic. Plan your return route - the buses that drive through there require a special ticket, and were around $15 a person. We ended up finding a taxi that was waiting there for a group, but it was stressful for a minute after we waited about 45 minutes to figure it out.
National Palace of Pena
Day 5 - Castelo de São Jorge
We had a slow morning at our hotel. After breakfast, we began our day by taking an Uber to the Castelo de São Jorge, which took approximately 25 minutes because of the traffic. This historic, hilltop fortress has origins dating back to early centuries. The present structure was secured by the Moors in the 11th century, and King Afonso Henriques took possession of the fortress. It served as a royal palace for centuries. We explored the castle for about 1 hour and a half. The kids had fun exploring the different areas, and seeing the beautiful sites of Lisbon from above.
We exited the Castle, and began exploring the neighborhood, eventually ending up on Augusta Street. We loved this popular area, visiting three different times while we were there. We were hungry for lunch, and went to Bifanas do Alfonso. These pork steak sandwiches were delicious.